Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always defined its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
